Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 16

Date: April 25, 2025 Friday

Where did I begin today?

León (Hostel Covent Garden)

Where will I stay this evening?

Villar de Mazarife (San Antonio de Padua)

How far have I come?

21km (13.05 miles)

Very quiet morning in the city

The morning sunlight was the perfect backdrop

Yellow arrows can still be found painted on streets & buildings

Beautiful way to start my walk today

I left my (still eerily quiet) Albergue at 7:30am and started walking. The cathedral looked beautiful with the sun rising behind it and I met two girls who offered to take my picture. It was very quiet in the old city, but things got busier the more modern the city got. I even had to wait at a few crosswalks for cars to pass by.

More modern part of León

Suburban sprawl

Plaza San Marcos

Small chapel dedicated to St. James

After crossing the river and leaving the main city, I reached more industrial sprawl which wasn’t very nice. There were still groups of pilgrims walking ahead of me though so I kept going. I stopped in La Virgin del Camino for breakfast (tortilla, bread, and hot chocolate) just before the path split.

Bronze statues of the 12 Apostles on San Froilán church

Stopped for breakfast in La Virgen del Camino

When I read my guidebook on the train yesterday, I decided to take the alternative southern route because the main route was along a highway. The scenic route was about the same distance and promised to be more isolated with fewer facilities along the way. I had booked tonight’s accommodation in Villar de Mazarife which was on the scenic route.

Map of the 2 possible routes

The fork in the road was very clearly marked

Once I came to the fork in the road, I turned south. The path was nice, flat, country roads with pretty scenery all around. There was only 100km of incline, not too bad. I stopped in Chozas de Abajo to give feet a rest. I found a shady bench, ate a Cliff bar, and had a chat with Alec from Italy who was also taking a breather.

Start of the alternative route

Very flat, little shade

Crossing the highway instead of following it

The sun got very hot in the afternoon and there was hardly any shade along the Camino. The last 5km were tough but manageable. My feet started getting tired of the asphalt (Still wearing my sandals which have much less cushion then my Hokas).

I made it to the San Antonio de Padua Albergue on the edge of Villar de Mazarife. The Albergue was just one big room with over 30 squeaky bunkbeds. I showered and did hand laundry, then sat in the nice, front garden on the shaded patio. I met and chatted with Millie (22y.o.) from Tasmania, Oz from Israel, and Joe (31y.o.) from the UK. Joe is using only a Nokia brick phone on the Camino and I asked if he could play snake on it (the answer was yes). I take too many pictures on my phone for me to give it up, though I haven’t used any personal social media since I started my Camino which has been so nice, I don’t miss it at all.

Made it to Villar de Mazarife

This Albergue had a lovely front garden area

I got hungry around 6pm, so went to the tiny shop in town for a snack and stopped by the small church (closed) on my way back. I researched tomorrow’s stage and booked my Albergue in Astorga. I will probably will send my bag ahead tomorrow since it’s nearly 30km of walking.

Found another pilgrim statue

Typical architectural style for this part of Spain

Little church in town

Saw lots of big nests on church steeples all along the Camino

We had a delicious 4-course dinner of salad, gazpacho, paella, and ice cream with bread and wine. At my table, I met some ladies from Canada, Bruce and John from Boston MA, and had a conversation about Shakespeare with Joe who I found out works for the RSC in Stratford upon Avon. I went to bed around 9:30pm.

Some impressive cross stitch artwork decorating the Albergue