Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 18

Date: April 27, 2025 Sunday

Where did I begin today?

Astorga (Só Por Hoje)

Where will I stay this evening?

Rabanal del Camino (Gaucelmo Refugio)

How far have I come?

19.81km (12.31 miles)

Leaving Astorga

Sometimes the path narrowed so pilgrims had to walk single file

Despite the extremely comfortable bed, I didn’t sleep too well. Ate the simple, provided breakfast and left around 8am. Today is the first day that I have not booked any accommodation! I researched yesterday, and know exactly where I want to stay tonight, but it’s a donativo (meaning donation based, no set price) that only takes walk-ins. Definitely a bit stressed about what to do if I don’t make it early enough to get a bed. But today’s elevation gain is only about +200m and a shorter distance, so as long as my new blister doesn’t give me any trouble (switching to my Teva sandals forever now) I’m confident that I can do it.

Saw several of these pretty flowering trees today

Passing through one of several villages

Passed by lots of old stone walls and ruins

I met two nice Canadian couples walking out of Astorga. Got talking and I stopped for tortilla with them at the first village. Then I continued my walk alone (although there was a steady line of pilgrims) up a gradual incline. It got warmer so I removed my leggings beneath my cargo pants at the second village but didn’t stop.

There was a line for good reason

Finished result!

His cute dog taking a nap

Excited for my first wax stamp

Got my first wax stamp from an Italian guy on the side of the road. A bit of a wait, but worth it, I chose the design and he chose the colors; it turned out so pretty! While waiting in line, I met another Canadian family (seems to be a running theme today). At the third village, I stopped for a bathroom break and orange juice before the final 7km stretch. The last 2km were tough going uphill in the sun. I passed some crosses pilgrims made out of twigs, and applied more sunscreen at a picnic table.

Crosses woven into the fence

Entering Rabanal del Camino

Still not much shade, but the incline increases

Refugio Gaucelmo

I made it to Rabanal del Camino around 1:30pm. Refugio Gaucelmo had room so I stayed! I took a shower and did hand laundry (they had a spin dryer like we use for swimsuits) and ate a pilgrim menu at the restaurant across the street. Then I video called my family from the pretty garden.

The reason I wanted to stay at Refugio Gaucelmo: it’s run by the British Confraternity of St. James and they host a traditional afternoon tea every day at 5pm. It was lovely! They served Yorkshire tea with sugar and milk along with digestives and homemade oatmeal coconut cookies. As could be expected, I met a group of guys from the UK and an Irish guy that lives in London. The two hosts were also very kind, and the woman from New Zealand explained the volunteer process.

Simple, clean sleeping area

Pretty orchard, in the summer they let pilgrims camp if they bring their own tent

Laundry station

Common sight at Albergues of drying laundry

I sat by the fireplace reading my guidebook for a while. I booked my next Albergue in Molinaseca and decided to send my bag ahead since tomorrow’s walk is a long distance with a steep descent. The only problem is, donativos don’t collect luggage transport, so I asked the host which Albergue I could leave my bag at tomorrow morning and he gave me a location.

Daily afternoon tea

I always enjoy relaxing by a good fireplace

Lovely communal space

I went to Vespers service at 7pm in the 12th century parish Church of Santa María built by the Knights Templar. The service was led by five Benedictine monks from Germany, the Philippines, and Tonga. They sang Gregorian chants that we responded to in Latin (following along in a provided pamphlet). It was such a unique and beautiful experience. If it wasn’t disrespectful, I would love to have filmed it because the acoustics were amazing. Sat in front of the fire again until the Pilgrim’s blessing at 9:20pm where I also got a stamp in my credential. Then I packed up quietly and went to bed.

Monastery where the small order of monks live

Inside the Church of Santa María

Listening to the Gregorian chants felt like stepping back in time