Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 29 (Day 4 of Part 2)
Date: June 9, 2025 Monday
Where did I begin today?
Portomarín (Hotel Star)
Where will I stay this evening?
Os Valos (Hosteria Calixtino)
How far have I come?
21.32km
A delicious breakfast to start the day
Chose the main route on the left
I woke up at 7am and dropped off my luggage in the lobby. This hotel had an incredible breakfast buffet, I had meat, cheese, bread, eggs, and peach juice. Left by myself at 8:30am and chose to take the main route by the river rather than the alternate route through the woods. The river section ended up being very empty and peaceful. I paused briefly at Igrexa San Roque before continuing on. When it eventually joined with the alternate route, the path became super busy and I tried to walk quickly to get ahead of a large group of pilgrims.
Walking above the rio Miño
Igrexa San Roque
Walked 8km to Gonzar which was the first town of the day with food so the rest stop was very crowded. I decided to stop for an orange juice, then took the small detour to avoid the main road. While walking this section I met up with Jill and walked with her for a while. Along way we also met Diane, Doug, and Londa who were all interested in seeing the Roman ruins like me. I found the exact turn off point on my Camino app and we all took the short detour to see the ancient Roman ruins. The fact that historical architecture can stand the test of time to be seen today is always so mesmerizing. One thing the Camino does well is make you feel a connection to other pilgrims who walked this exact route and passed by the same ruins hundreds of years ago. There’s a unique passage of time that puts things into perspective and I always feel that very keenly in places like the ruins.
Detour to the Roman ruins
photo credit: Doug Campbell
Still standing over 1000 years later
Another angle
Our little group kept walking together and tried to endure the heat. With a clear sky and bright sun overhead, the weather was definitely hotter than in April so it made walking more tiring than I was used to. When we reached the tiny Knights Templar shrine (Capela de Magdalena) we waited in line to get a special stamp from the attendant who was also blind. While waiting for our stamps, we met up with the Prestons, Jen, Becca, and Blakely, and others. I took this opportunity to dunk my buff and sun sleeves in a cold fountain which felt so nice.
Three dogs taking themselves for a walk
Capela de Magdalena
At this point, it was getting close to our designated lunch time of 2pm when the whole group was supposed to gather at the Cru run Albergue Fuente del Peregrino. People in the group had differing ideas about how many kilometers further it was and when I checked my Camino app, the distance appeared further than what some others had said. I tried to hurry the group along since I was anxious of turning up late. In the end, we made it there just at 2pm and saw them setting up a special picnic table lunch in the shady field. I eagerly discarded my backpacks and shoes (the grass felt nice on bare feet) to join the rest of our group at the table and wait for the final stragglers to join us.
photo credit: Diane Campbell
photo credit: Dawn Dishman
A wonderful picnic
The picnic was amazing! They served a charcuterie board that included Galician cheese with quince spread and cold cuts, salad, bread, peaches, cherries, and fresh baked brownies. It was a glorified feast in a beautiful setting. After eating, we looked around the Albergue lobby and learned about the history and mission of Fuente del Peregrino from Barret. The Cru house is run by rotating groups of 6-12 volunteers who pay about 150€ per week to serve as hospitaleros. When I briefly spoke to Barret, I mentioned I know the Pratts who have volunteered at Fuente for several years and he remembered them.
La Fuente del Peregrino
Just some cows passing through
Most of the group continued amiably chatting and resting but I was eager to start walking again so I got ready to leave. Before continuing my walk, I rinsed my sleeves, buff, and hat in a cold water fountain again. I walked solo for the last 4.25km and it was extremely hot with only patches of shade. While I normally prefer solitude while walking, the downside was that there was no conversation to distract me from the heat this time. Luckily we weren’t walking to the normal ending stage of Palas de Rei, instead stopping a few kilometers short.
On the road again
This dog walked with me for a little bit
I was the first person to reach the hotel and checked in easily. It was in the middle of nowhere, very cute picturesque setting with a pretty courtyard. I nearly finished showering before Blakely even arrived in our shared room. Afterwards, I stretched my legs and did sink laundry before taking my clothes outside to line dry in the large field surrounding the property. Chores done, I then video called mom from the courtyard to wish her a Happy Birthday.
A very tranquil location for a hotel
Serene view from the front patio
We held our group discussion outside at 7pm and several people ordered huge sangrias from the bar so I got one too. Then we had dinner at 8pm: salad, veal and fries, with lemon mouse for dessert. I stayed a bit after dinner talking with some others and we discussed the possibility of after dinner games in the future but I wasn’t up to it tonight. At 10:15pm I took my nearly dry laundry inside and hung it around my room overnight to avoid the damp outside conditions. I was in bed by 11.
