Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 37 (Day 3 of Part 3 Granada)
Date: June 18, 2025 Wednesday
Where did I begin today?
Granada
Where will I stay this evening?
Hotel Casa Palacio Pilar del Toro
How far have I come?
Did lots of walking around the city
I decided to sleep in a bit this morning. I went to a nearby café to grab a croissant for breakfast and then made my way to Plaza Nueva, the meeting place for the Granada walking tour at 11am. Our guide showed up a few minutes early and everyone introduced themselves while waiting for the whole group to arrive. I was one of only two Americans. Once around eighteen of us had gathered, the walking tour began.
The Darro river continues underneath Plaza Santa Ana
Statue of Christopher Columbus & Queen Isabella I of Castile
The walking tour focused on the unique history of Granada and its distinct culture from the rest of Spain that is clearly visible in the architecture, cuisine, and flamenco dancing. Granada’s geographic nearness to Northern Africa meant that the city spent hundreds of years under Moorish rule until it was eventually conquered by the Catholic monarchs in 1492 (Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon) and became part of Spain.
The old souk
Lots of tiny plazas with beautiful mosaics
One of many mosaics
We started in the square next to my hotel and our guide explained how the river (that I walked next to yesterday coming back from Alhambra) was paved over and continued underground. We also passed a statue of Christopher Columbus who, our guide made sure to point out, was not even Spanish but was financially backed by Isabella and Ferdinand. Then he took us to the old souk in the city that still has narrow streets and some beautiful mosaics on the walls. It definitely still has a marketplace feel to it even though there are a lot more touristy souvenir shops around.
Iglesia Parroquial del Sagrario
Iglesia Parroquial del Sagrario
Centuries old Latin graffiti written in bull blood
Our next stop was at Iglesia Parroquial del Sagrario right next to the Granada Cathedral but free to enter. He talked about the architecture and how the Cathedral was built over the Nasrid Great Mosque shortly after the conquest of Granada by the Catholic Monarchs. On the way out, we passed ancient graffiti written on the stone walls in Latin. He explained that back in the 17th century it became tradition for university students to write their names in bull’s blood upon graduation.
Convento de San Gregorio Bético
Nuns praying
On the way to our next location, we passed by several restaurants that our guide recommended for tapas. He also told us to try a Rebujito, an Andalusian cocktail that is a mix of white wine and sprite; and if we went to a tea house to get Pakistani tea (black tea with cinnamon, cardamom, and vanilla). We paused briefly in a tiny chapel called Convento de San Gregorio Bético where we saw some nuns praying.
A very peaceful plaza
Very nice view of Alhambra
Drinking fountain just below
We continued on to the Albaicin neighborhood with its winding, cobbled, uphill streets. He explained what a traditional Carmen house was and how a lot of the Carmens here were being bought up by wealthy Arabs who never lived in them. Our group didn’t walk all the way up to San Nicolas but instead stopped at a pretty plaza that I could never have found on my own with a lovely view of Alhambra. This was the end of our walking tour and since it was donation based, I gave all of my leftover euro coins to the guide.
No pictures inside the Hammam obviously
It was almost 1pm so I walked back to my hotel to grab my bathing suit and go to the Hammam I had booked for 2pm. I had booked a 90-minute session including a 30-minute massage and 60minutes in the baths. I put all my things in the locker room and then got a brief tour of all the baths (different temperature water), steam room, sauna, and sitting area with tea. I was told to start with the room temperature pool then work my way up to the hotter ones incrementally. A masseuse came to find me when it was time for my massage and then I returned to the baths until the bell indicated the session was over. Aside from being incredibly rejuvenating after all of my walking the past week, the traditional architecture made it feel like what the Alhambra baths might have been like long ago. It was a very nice experience.
Another tea house
The Royal Chapel
Snacks to hold me over until dinner
Rebujito and tapas
After stopping by my hotel to change again, I went to another tea house and did some souvenir shopping. I then returned to the Royal Chapel since I now knew that it was a separate ticket from the Cathedral I went to before but I wanted to see the tombs of Isabella and Ferdinand. No pictures were allowed but it was very interesting so I’m glad that I went. Then I stopped at one of the tapas bars for a snack and ordered a Rebujito which I liked way more than I thought I would. Uncle David texted me asking how my trip was going so I called him and we had a nice conversation as I walked back to my hotel to relax.
Royal Chapel engraved with f (Ferdinand II of Aragon) & y (Isabella I of Castile)
Dinner at Pilar del Toro
Quail in fig sauce
The hotel restaurant was open tonight so I finally got to have my dinner there. I ordered quail in fig sauce and they also gave me some cheese, olives, and wine. The atmosphere with the soft lighting and fountain was very nice like I thought it would be and the food was good. After dinner, I went to one final tea house part way up the hill so I could witness a nighttime view of the Alhambra all lit up. I got Pakistani tea this time which was very good and enjoyed my final night in Spain. All in all, a very satisfying final day in Granada, I shall miss it.
Delicious tea with a view
The Alhambra above El Bañuelo
The Alhambra at night is stunning
