Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 1
Date: April 10, 2025 Thursday
Where did I begin today?
On a plane to Madrid
Where will I stay this evening?
Saint Jean Pied de Port- Gite Beilari
How far have I come?
Approx. 7,145km (4,435miles) by plane
Plane from Madrid to Pamplona
Yesterday I flew from Orlando to Madrid via Miami, and today I took another small plane to Pamplona, Spain with a vague plan to take the once daily ASLA bus to Saint Jean Pied de Port, France. When I landed in Pamplona, I asked a pilgrim in the airport (Flavio from Brazil) if he was walking the Camino. He suggested we go to the bus station together, and after we learned that we missed the bus to SJPDP for that day, he suggested we share a taxi together.
My first travel companion, Flavio
Even though there was a small language barrier, we were able to communicate our excitement to start the Camio. He was very kind and even stayed with me while I walked around trying to find an ATM at a bank. When my card didn’t work, he graciously let me pay the taxi fare with my credit card and paid me his half in cash so that I had some money to start with. During the taxi ride, we stopped 15km away for motion sickness as we crossed the winding roads over the Pyrenees mountains and got out of the cab for a few minutes before resuming the drive. Caught a glimpse of Roncesvalles in the distance too.
The Saint Jean Pied de Port Pilgrim’s Office
Arrived in SJPDP and said goodbye to Flavio who went to find his Albergue. I went to the Pilgrim’s office at 2pm to get my Credential and first stamp and the lovely volunteers also gave me a map and useful advice about crossing the Napoleon pass. My first Albergue I had booked months ago, Gite Beilari opened at 3pm and I checked in. They keep all shoes and backpacks on the back patio and gave us each a small box to put belongings in and carry up to our rooms. I met a wonderful group of pilgrims, including Lisa (Denmark) who ate soup with me for lunch. After, I walked around the quaint village and bought my hiking poles, a sun hat, Camino map buff, and a rain poncho after finding a working ATM (thank goodness! What would I do without cash?).
Beautiful Saint Jean Pied de Port
I returned to the Albergue, took a shower before dinner and settled in. At 7:30pm we had a communal dinner cooked by our Basque hosts (Fleur) that was wonderful! They also taught us a bit of history of the Basque region and the Albergue. We played a name/ball game and shared a bit about ourselves and why we are walking the Camino. Then we had 3 courses (soup, salad, vegetarian bolognaise) and they sang happy birthday to me with chocolate pudding. I met several people who are also walking to Albergue Borda tomorrow who want to move at a slower pace and I’m grateful to tackle the first and most difficult day with them. (Note: most people walk all the way to Roncesvalles in one day, but I thought that would be beyond my physical capabilities so I split it in half.) Went upstairs to my 4-person room on a top bunk. Now I’m sitting in bed writing, lights out at 10:30pm.
First communal dinner on the Camino
I’m equal parts excited and nervous about tomorrow. I hope I can get a good night’s sleep and that the elevation tomorrow won’t be too difficult for me. Why are the first two days the most difficult? I wish I had more time to explore SJPDP but I’m also so excited to begin! As our hosts taught us: Ultreia et Suseia (go further and go higher).
Albergue Beilari