Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 10

Date: April 19, 2025 Saturday

Where did I begin today?

Viana -> walk to Logroño -> bus to Navarette

Where will I stay this evening?

Navarette (Le Casa del Peregrino Angel)

How far have I come?

21.5km (13.36 miles) total; 9.5km (5.9 miles) walking, 12km (7.46 miles) by bus

Church of St. Peter

The start of the mud

Leaving Viana

I left Viana around 7:45am in the rain. My sandals (which I’m still wearing because my Hokas won’t fit over the large blister on my left heel) and socks were soon soaked through. I had high spirits until I encountered dirt roads that had turned to mud. Progress slowed to a crawl and it was difficult as I navigated around excessive puddles and tried not to let my feet get stuck in the mud. Sandals definitely aren’t the ideal footwear for this terrain but they’re my only choice at the moment.

Very wet morning

One of many murals I saw along the Camino

Mud only got worse from here

I met Colin several times on the road and we chatted which was nice. The walk into Logroño finally changed to paved roads as the landscape became more urban. I picked up the pace but was growing concerned about how cold and wet my feet were and how that would affect my blister.

A blessed end to the muddy roads

Getting closer to Logroño

Arriving at the magnificent bridge that entered the old city of Logroño, debated my next steps. On the one hand, I felt great physically and like I could keep going to Navarette, on the other hand, the rain was continuing and I didn’t know much more cold, wet, and mud my feet could endure without causing larger problems. I stopped inside the Pilgrim’s Info Office since it was open and a brief respite from the rain. The man at the desk was very kind and helpful. I decided to take a bus and he gave me a map that listed the correct bus stop that would lead me to Navarette. I thanked him and continued over the bridge.

Bridge over rio Ebro

Crossing bridge into Logroño

Pilgrim Office

I visited the Cathedral first which was very large and beautiful. It was still open but there were lots of workers milling about getting everything set up for Easter tomorrow. I also saw some of the wooden effigies that were probably used in last night’s Good Friday procession. After looking around a bit, I found the office and the nuns stamped my credential.

Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda

I went back out into the rain with my next goal to find a pharmacy. Before I’d left for Spain, fellow Orlando pilgrims recommended I buy ibuprofen topical gel for muscle aches and pains. With recent store closures due to holidays, I hadn’t had a chance to find any yet. After making my purchase, I found the correct bus stop on my map of Logroño and waited.

Map of Logroño bus stops

At 11:20am the bus came and it only took 20mins to Navarette. I felt really frustrated with myself for “giving up too soon”. Even though I had not wanted to vilify taking taxis/busses when needed, the fact I had already taken two before this made me feel like a quitter and not a “real pilgrim”. Except for how painful my blister was becoming; I was finally getting into the groove of walking for three straight days with no transportation. I also knew that I needed to take another taxi tomorrow because I was behind my planned stages due to not finding lodging in Logroño or Nájera. I had already booked my Albergue on Easter Sunday in Santo Domingo de la Calzada which was too far for me to physically walk from Navarette in a single day (nearly 40km/25miles).

Goodbye Logroño

Hello Navarette

I arrived in Navarette in low spirits, the bus dropped me off outside of town and I navigated my way back to the Camino and followed the yellow arrows. found my Albergue around 12pm and the host, Angel, kindly let me in early. I took a shower, washed all the mud off my socks and sandals, and then decided I needed to take care of my blister so this situation wouldn’t happen again. Taking great care to sanitize everything, I sat down on my lower bunkbed and threaded my blister with a sterilized needle and thread. The idea was to leave the thread sticking out either side of the blister to let it drain overnight. I then covered it with hiker’s wool and tape before putting on clean, dry socks.

Le Casa del Peregrino Angel

Downstairs communal space

Drying my feet by the fire

That accomplished, I went into town in search of food. It was still raining but lighter than this morning so I hoped my feet would stay dry during this short excursion. I went to a restaurant/Albergue near the church for lunch and saw Sally who just arrived and would be lodging here. After eating lunch, I visited the church for a quiet moment of reflection. Then I returned to my Albergue and sat in front of the fire drying my socks and reading my guidebook about tomorrow’s stage.

16th century church in Navarette

A moment of reflection

Had another communal dinner with pilgrims I hadn’t met before including Toni who is one of the few Spaniards I’ve encountered on the Camino so far. Angel cooked vegetarian paella with a side of olives and wine, it was delicious! After enjoying dinner near the fire downstairs, it feels much colder in the upstairs dorm. Getting ready for bed around 8pm.

Homemade vegetarian paella

Lower bunk in upstairs dorm