Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 11
Date: April 20, 2025 Easter Sunday
Where did I begin today?
Navarette -> walk to Nájera -> taxi to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Where will I stay this evening?
Santo Domingo de la Calzada (Albergue Peregrinos Cofradía del Santo)
How far have I come?
36.96km (22.96 miles) total; 16.03km (9.96 miles) walking
Leaving Navarette
Follow the shells
When I woke up, I was happy to see that the blister threading had worked to drain all the fluid out. I carefully removed the thread and put a new Compeed on then padded it with hiker’s wool. I left around 7:50am, the morning was a bit cold but luckily no rain today. The beginning section was a nice, flat walk across farmland, then along a highway.
Across farmland
Spotted some friendly dogs
Highway to the right
Today’s journal theme was gratitude, so I tried to practice gratitude while walking. It was also strange to think that today was Easter since it just felt like any normal day on the Camino so far. I stopped to eat a snack/breakfast at first rest stop, a few picnic tables beside the path. I also took photos of several signs along the route advertising local taxi services that I would need after reaching Nájera
Rest stop with picnic tables
crossed a little stream
Towards end of the stage, I caught up with Anna and Sally and walked with them to Nájera. We talked about life and also saw Colin on the road. Entering Nájera, we found Annika, Annabelle, and David at Café Luna and stopped there for a snack and to have a lovely chat. All of them are staying in Nájera tonight (which is where I should have stayed last night if I was on schedule) but I needed to continue on to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. My plan that I formulated last night was to walk to Nájera since it was nearly halfway there and then taxi the remaining distance. I felt really sad that I’d be leaving this group of friends and might not run into them again since I’d be one day ahead, it was a bittersweet farewell.
(Back L to R) Annabelle, Colin, me, Sally, Anna, Annika, David
After everyone left, I called a taxi from Café Luna and sat down to wait another 45 minutes for him to arrive. The problem was, it felt weird sitting idle for so long when I spent the whole morning walking. The taxi finally sent me a WhatsApp to say he was here and drove me to Santo Domingo. Even though it was a short distance by car, he charged me more than I was expecting, probably due to it being Easter Sunday. He dropped me off in town and I walked about ten minutes to reach Albergue Peregrinos Cofradía del Santo.
In front of the Cathedral
Plaza del Santo
After I had checked into my Albergue (which was rather large compared to ones I’d stayed in recently), I went to tour the cathedral. Unfortunately, I had missed Easter morning service since I was walking. Pilgrims get discounted tickets and this one included the Cathedral and bell tower next door. The Cathedral was massive and gorgeous. It had two very unique things, the first was the tomb of Santo Domingo with artful mosaics along the walls and ceiling. The second was an ornately decorated chicken coop raised above our heads that held a live cock and hen. I read the legend about why it came to be in the Brierley guidebook but it’s still funny to hear a rooster crow from inside a church.
The cathedral coop with a live cock and hen
stairs leading down into the tomb
Occasionally heard a caw from the rooster
Beautiful mosaics on every wall
My next stop after the cathedral was the bell tower across the square since it was included with my ticket. I climbed 136 ancient stone steps to top (why!?) where there was a magnificent view of the city and you could see the Camino since the street passed through the square beneath. My legs felt like jelly by the time I reached the bottom again.
Up, up, and up
View from the top
One of several large bells
The Camino I’ll walk tomorrow
I went back to the lobby of my Albergue and got hot milk from a vending machine to make myself a lavender earl grey latte (still have plenty of tea bags left). Sue had sent me a WhatsApp message asking if I’d like to meet her and Bill for dinner at a restaurant near their hotel which was also close to where I was staying. I met them and Jeff (who I had met all the way back on day one. He works for a Catholic church in the States doing their finances.) at Bar Piedra.
Albergue Peregrinos Cofradía del Santo overlooking the lobby, I’m in dorm 3
Got hot milk to make my tea latte
The pilgrim’s menu was delicious, aside from the usual bread and wine, I had Roja potatoes, chicken with French fries, and rice pudding for dessert. The four of us had a lovely conversation and talked about the peaks and pits of our day. Jeff insisted on paying for all four of our meals which was very generous of him.
Roja potatoes
Rice pudding
I said goodbye to them all and headed back to my Albergue around 8pm. My assigned lower bunkbed was near the door so unfortunately bright light would shine in any time someone opened the door. But I hung my drying towel as a curtain to block most of the light, and with my eye mask and earplugs was able to sleep fine.
Lower bunk in dorm room
