Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 13
Date: April 22, 2025 Tuesday
Where did I begin today?
Belorado (Cuatro Cantones)
Where will I stay this evening?
Villafranca de Montes de Oca (San Antón Abad Pilgrim’s Hostel)
How far have I come?
11.8km (7.33 miles)
Bridge over a swollen river
Mural painted on the side of a gas station
I left Cuatro Cantones around 7:45am in my Teva sandals as usual. Even though my blister was drained, I continued wearing my sandals since I didn’t want any rubbing that would exacerbate it. However, it had rained last night and the dirt roads had turned to mud. After leaving the paved streets of Belorado, I quickly ran into mud so thick that my feet sank with every step. Not to mention the puddles of water I had to pick my way around at a snail’s pace. At the first village shop I found, I went inside and changed into my Hokas. The mud continued to get worse so I’m glad I changed my shoes.
The start of the mud…
One of many puddles I tried to avoid
I didn’t stop for breakfast, just ate half a Cliff bar while walking. Last night in the guidebook, I had read about the old hermitage Our Lady of the Crag; it was built into the side of a cliff and visible from the Camino. I snapped a photo as I walked past. Also briefly paused at a cute little church to get another stamp in my nearly full credential. While there, I met Vivian who I recognized from the Camigas Facebook group and walked with her briefly. We had messaged each other back in March when we realized we’d be leaving almost the same day, but our paths hadn’t crossed until today.
View of hermitage from Camino
Tiny village church
A nice, dry place to pause
Ironically, even though today’s scenery was pretty with gentle rolling hills, I would have preferred yesterday’s road walking today. Instead, there was just mud. Today was supposed to be a very short walking day, but the mud and puddles made everything slow going. In total, I passed 3 little towns before making it to Villafranca de Montes de Oca.
More mud
The state of the Camino after a rain shower
I saw Cathy, Sherri, and Kyra just as they were leaving. I stopped for early lunch with Cassie, Ryan, and an Asian man named Armando who was dressed in a distinctive red jacket and cowboy hat. All of them are walking over 30kms today to San Juan de Ortega which is the normal end of this stage. However, since it’s Tuesday, I have to start work at 2pm. I wished I could have walked a little bit further than Villafranca which is about half way, but there are literally no other towns between here and San Juan. After Villafranca de Montes de Orca, the Camino ascends up several steep hills through a remote, forested area. I know that at my uphill pace, I would never make it in time so I’m forced to stop here for today and probably bus at least part of the way into Burgos tomorrow. So, I said goodbye to the group as they continued on.
Ruins of Monasterio de San Félix de Oca
Crossing another swollen river
Entering Villafranca de Montes de Orca
Villafranca is hardly more than a trucker’s stop. There’s a small scattering of buildings but the Camino runs along the main highway where trucks come zipping around the corner super fast. I hate being so close to a busy highway and was hugging the walls as close as I could. I got to San Antón Abad hostel at 11:30am. It’s a very nice hotel, that also has an Albergue around the back. The bed cubicles are nice too. The lounge also has a fireplace where I might work later.
Front entrance
Albergue entrance around the rear
Hotel lobby
View from the window
After showering and unpacking, I got local bus info at the front desk, drank some hot tea at the bar, then sat in front of the fireplace at 2pm to work. The small room was a bit loud during the meeting but luckily that part was short. Dinner was at 7pm and I saw Jeff in the lobby who invited me to eat with him and his group. I met Leo from Leesburg FL, and Tim from TX who works at REI. Jeff told us about how he got so distracted while walking today that he overshot the town by almost 5km and had to get a taxi back to the hotel! I can’t imagine not noticing walking an extra 5k. Food was delicious, I had potatoes with sausage, eggplant with meat, and flan for dessert. Going to bed around 10pm.
Fireplace in the common area
Nice, more private Albergue setup
No bunk beds is always a plus
