Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 12

Date: April 21, 2025 Monday

Where did I begin today?

Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Where will I stay this evening?

Belorado (Cuatro Cantones)

How far have I come?

22.67km (14.09 miles)

The morning rush of pilgrims

Beautiful morning

I left the Albergue at 7:45am, it was another beautiful sunny day. I felt great and found the perfect breakfast food truck in Grañon where I briefly saw Sherri and Kyra finishing their meal. Walked along a beautiful country road out of the little village and I marveled that I could understand The Lord of the Rings books so much better after walking the Camino, it changes your perception about time and distance when you walk long distances.

Entering Grañon

Adorable food truck

Great breakfast

Next, I passed by a large sign that declared you were entering into the largest autonomous region of Spain: Castilla Y León. While stopping to take a few pictures, some pilgrims nearby shared the breaking news that the Pope was dead. It was an odd way to find out for sure. I noticed that, similar from when I passed from France into Spain, the shell and arrow signs marking the Camino changed appearance since this was a different region of Spain. I definitely prefer the old signs, these ones look very modern, but oh well, as long as they continue to provide direction.

Entering Castilla Y León

After that, the scenery changed again and there was lots of walking next to busy highways broken up by small villages. Up until this point, I had avoided listening to music while walking, preferring to stay in the moment and listen to the natural sounds around me. However, I had prepared a few playlists on Spotify for moments like these when the sounds of traffic and large trucks rumbling past became overwhelming. I still didn’t want to “break my immersion” by listening to current pop songs, so instead I had researched a few music options with specific ties to the Camino. This included Oliver Schroer’s 2008 violin album which he recorded in various churches along the Camino, and Choral Recital by John Eliot Gardiner. Both were on theme and upbeat enough to keep up my pace while walking. Even drowning out the worst of the road sounds, I disliked walking so close to highways.

Lots of walking along the highway today

Beauty can be found anywhere

Loved this landscape

I felt great the first 17km but started to tire by the time I reached the last town. I bought a coke (my first time drinking soda on the Camino) at a roadside rest stop and just powered through the last 5km stretch. I was tired by the end, but proud to have finally accomplished a full day of walking after what felt like a long time.

I preferred the old stone signs but I’ll see these the rest of the way to Burgos

Music was the only way to drown out the sound of cars and trucks zooming past

I arrived at Cuatro Cantones and was in same room as Cathy. Then, Cassie arrived, she is now walking with her son’s friend Ryan who is a college student in Valencia, Spain and wanted to walk a small section of the Camino on his break. Peter (Roncesvalles) is also staying here and he has been walking with Caroline who is staying in another Albergue but stopped by to say hello. I paid her back for my share of the Pamplona taxi since I never know when I’ll see anyone next. It’s always nice to see more familiar faces. This is something totally unique to the Camino and as an introvert, I didn’t expect enjoying socializing as much as I am. Definitely learning more things about myself.

Made it to Belorado

Cathy on the lower bunk, I was on the top bunk

I took shower and hand-washed laundry (but I paid for dryer). Then I was hungry so I went out and got a snack in Plaza Mayor. I came back and briefly sat by the pool to read my guidebook and write in my journal, but it was kind of chilly so came inside again to wait for dinner. This Albergue also had a vending machine for coffee/milk so I got myself a cup of hot chocolate.

Plaza Mayor

Church of Santa Maria

Too cold to swim in the pool

The way this communal dinner worked was that you were assigned a table to eat at. I didn’t get seated with anyone I know, but instead met a lot of new pilgrims. I ate dinner with a French lady, a UK man who lives in Australia, and a US lady (67y.o. from Oregon) who never left the states before. The meal was delicious: pasta salad, spinach cheese dip, and lemon cream dessert with the Spanish staples of bread and local wine. When I went back to my dorm room around 9:30pm, the heater had come on making the room pleasantly warm. Climbed up to my top bunk to sleep.

This Albergue had its own personalized bottles of local wine!