Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 14

Date: April 23, 2025 Wednesday

Where did I begin today?

Villafranca de Montes de Orca

Where will I stay this evening?

Burgos (Hotel Norte y Londres)

How far have I come?

38.17km (23.72 miles) by bus

Standard breakfast: toast with tomato garlic oil & salt, tea, orange juice

View from the bus

Woke up freezing because the window was open and my bed was right next to it. I ate breakfast in the bar area then went to bus stop at 8:30am (8:52am scheduled bus to Burgos). I waited quietly in the cold with 3 older Asian women. The bus came at 9:05am and we all paid and got on.

Bridge in downtown Burgos

Walking in the old part of Burgos

After looking at the map last night, it appeared there would be multiple stops along the route to Burgos. My plan was to ride the bus past the steep, forest section (the Camino was nowhere near the main road anyway) and get off after we passed San Juan and the path flattened out a bit. I wasn’t quite sure where the Camino and road would link up, but kept my app open on my phone to check the map as we went.

My hotel near the heart of the city

Hotel lobby

I’m not sure if I read the map wrong, or if the bus only makes stops if someone is waiting, but the bus only made a single stop in the industrial section on the outskirts of Burgos. No other pilgrims were getting off but it didn’t look like a part of town I wanted to walk through alone so I stayed on the bus. The second and final stop was at the main bus station in downtown Burgos about a 15-minute walk from my hotel. I was a bit bummed that I didn’t do any walking like I had planned, but later today I would be glad for the extra time spent in the city.

San Gil Abad church

San Lorenzo church

San Gil Abad church

San Lorenzo church

I made it to the Hotel Norte Y Londres and was able to check in early at 10am. This was my first time on the Camino having a whole room to myself and it felt strange. I was able to spread out all my stuff and relax for a bit. I looked up a foot doctor in Burgos I’d seen in a YouTube video from another pilgrim. My blister had filled with fluid again and rather than drain it again myself I hoped I could get a professional to look at it. Google said it was closed today for a holiday (Castilla y León Day) so I decided to walk over tomorrow morning before I left. Around noon I left the hotel to explore. First, I went to the nearby San Gil Abad and San Lorenzo churches then made my way to Plaza Mayor, through the Arco de Santa María to Burgos Cathedral.

Plaza Mayor

Arco de Santa María

Catedral de Santa María (Burgos Cathedral)

The scale of the Cathedral was unlike anything I’d seen before, it dominated the plaza and towered over every other building nearby, almost too bright to look at in the sunlight. I got my discounted pilgrim ticket and spent forever walking around the inside. The interior was equally massive with so many intricate stone carvings. Aside from the main nave, there were dozens of smaller side chapels, a cloister, and even a museum. I saw Pam there too, walking around.

Eventually, I got hungry and decided I wanted to eat somewhere with a view of the magnificent Cathedral. I found a restaurant in the square and ran into Toni and his friends so we got a table together and ate some overpriced pizza together.

Museum part of cathedral

scale model

Cloister

Tapestry, Pam for scale

scale model

Cloister

Afterwards, I circled the cathedral, trying to see every one of its different sides and ran into Cassie and Ryan. Next, I got a new credential at the municipal Albergue since my old one was almost full. Then I tried searching for bath bombs as a treat for later but many stores closed were for Castilla y Leon Day.

South facade of Cathedral

Camino passes right by the Cathedral

North side of Cathedral

At 6:45pm I met up with Sue & Bill and our WhatsApp group which included Pam, Cathy, Armando, Cassie, and a Canadian/Mexican couple I hadn’t met before. We got tapas at a cute outdoor restaurant in town and spent several hours talking. I’ll be so sad to leave this group of new friends I’ve made. Tomorrow I’ll take a train to León while they keep walking through the Meseta. I wish I had more time so that I could complete the whole Frances route too.

(L to R) me, Bill, Cathy, and Sue eating churros dipped in thick chocolate sauce

After dinner, most of the group dispersed but a few of us wanted dessert so I went for churros with Sue, Bill, and Cathy. I learned that Cathy was staying in the same hotel as me so we walked back together. She was kind enough to give me some of her Epsom salts, which I traded her a couple bags of earl grey tea. Having a bathtub was a major reason I booked this room so I took a lovely bath with Epsom salts before a late bedtime around 11pm.

Room all to myself

Bathtub = luxury