Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 19
Date: April 28, 2025 Monday
Where did I begin today?
Rabanal del Camino (Gaucelmo Refugio)
Where will I stay this evening?
Molinaseca (Albergue Compostela)
How far have I come?
25.6km (15.91 miles)
The rocky ascent begins
Saw so many purple flowers today
7am ate breakfast at the Albergue (very British: tea and toast). I got a bit of a late start walking since I helped the Canadian dad who I met yesterday drop off his luggage in the same place I was headed. He rushed off to meet his wife and son who waked ahead, since only he had a Spanish sim card he couldn’t call them. Meanwhile I stopped at WC and ran into them both; they were waiting for him by the edge of town and somehow missed each other so I explained what happened.
Passed several ruined buildings in several villages
Noelle (the mom) was taking it slow but I walked with Paul (the son, college age) trying to catch up to his dad. Paul warned me that he loves to talk but I said I didn’t mind as long as he wasn’t expecting me to respond (this section was going uphill). We did joke about how both our names were main characters in Dune. Eventually, father and son were reunited and decided to wait for Noelle so I continued walking.
Entering Foncebaddon
I was persuaded to stop by the apple pie
The uphill wasn’t as hard as I thought but I still took it slow. While walking I tried to reflect on what I wanted to leave (metaphorically) at the cross when I placed my stone today. I wasn’t planning to stop at Foncebaddon (only 5km from where I started) but Bill and Linda (Canadian couple I met yesterday) told me their apple pie was good so I ordered that and orange juice.
First sight of the Cruz de Ferro
Thousands of rocks left by generations of pilgrims
The Iron Cross sits 1504m (4934ft) above sea level
Adding my own stone to the pile
More uphill after that quick stop but I reached the Cruz de Ferro earlier than I expected (around 10:45am). There weren’t too many pilgrims when I arrived so I spent several contemplative minutes there thinking about my walk so far and my walk going forward both literally and spiritually. Two older ladies, Wendy and Ann, kindly took my photo. I left my stone (that I carried all the way from Orlando) after saying a short prayer.
More ruins
Made it to the top
Molinaseca is visible in the distance
The uphill continues
Quite a view
Descending into Acebo
Kept going up longer than I expected and passed many stone ruins at Manjarín. Stopped near highest point when Bill and Linda offered me a cookie and then the downhill began! It was now 12pm and I still had 11km (6.84 miles) of rocky terrain to go. Fortunately, while I struggle with inclines, I excel at descents and was hoping to make up some time on this section.
Shady spot to pause near a church
Leaving Acebo
Church in Acebo
I sped downhill when loose rocks allowed but it was slightly trickier than I expected. I stopped in a small church in Acebo to change my socks and reapply sunscreen since today was extra hot. I continued on to Riego de Ambros and stopped at a small hermitage. I refilled my water bottle and wet buff in fountain to keep my neck cool. The hardest part of the descent began and I was hot and tired for the last 4km. It’s honestly kind of a blur of sun and rocks.
Tiny hermitage
Very hot the last few kms
Inside the hermitage
A rocky descent
On the final descent, I met girl less than 1km away from Molinaseca who told me she was planning on stopping at the last village, but kept walking because of the blackout (this will become relevant later). I finally made it to Molinaseca t 3:30pm and when I entered Albergue Compostela, no one was there and the power was out. Eventually the host appeared and she explained that it wasn’t a local power outage, but instead for several hours there was a huge blackout encompassing all of Spain and Portugal! I had no idea because I had been walking all this time in mostly remote sections of road through the hills. I rarely use my phone while walking except to occasionally check the Camino app to see the remaining distance or elevation. She explained no one knew when electricity would be restored but until then, there were no lights, hot water, wifi, etc.
Final stretch of road
Crossing the bridge
Entering Molinaseca
Saw several people by the river on this hot day
As luck would have it, the power came back on a few minutes after I checked in so in the end, I wasn’t affected by the blackout at all. I showered (cold water because it was so hot outside) and went to a pharmacy to buy more Compeed. Back at the Albergue, I used a laundry bucket to do another herbal foot bath (my feet were still hot and the Thai herbs were very soothing. Then I re-threaded my blister (left foot) since it was getting large again and I didn’t want it to burst.
Albergue Compostela
Nice dormitory set up
One of the largest beds I had on the Camino
Upstairs lounge area
I saw the Canadian family again as I was going to dinner at 7pm, but they were staying in a different Albergue. I ate at an outdoor restaurant next to the river since the view was pretty (croquettes and potato bravos). Then headed back to the Albergue and got ready for bed around 8:50pm, it was an exhausting day.
View from the restaurant
Dinner by the river
