Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 21
Date: April 30, 2025 Wednesday
Where did I begin today?
Las Herrerias-> rode horse to O’Cebreiro-> walked to Fonfria
Where will I stay this evening?
Fonfria (Albergue Reboleira)
How far have I come?
7.97km (4.95 miles) on horseback +595m (+1952ft) elevation gain; 11.88km (7.38 miles) walking
The horses have arrived!
Getting acquainted with Bonnie
Victor helped me get up
All set to go
Bonnie was super friendly
In the morning, Joe said the Albergue breakfast buffet was good so I joined him, Kay had already left. Then I waited for Victor and horses who weren’t due to arrive until 9am. While waiting, I met another fellow horse rider: Meisie from Maryland; we were later joined by a husband and wife from Brazil. When Victor arrived, he introduced us to his four horses and asked if any of us had any previous riding experience. I hadn’t ridden a horse since I lived in Thailand nearly 4 years ago, but apparently that was more than anyone else in the group so he told me that I’d be riding in the lead on Bonnie while he walked with/held the reins for the couple in the back.
Following the road uphill
The path got much steeper
The horses knew exactly where to go
Victor and the others behind Bonnie and I
Bonnie was very gentle and reliable; she knew where she was going and listened to directions really well. We started up the steep road, single file, and the first section was very shady. After about 1 hour, my shoulders started to feel sore, so I loosened the straps of my backpack to let it sit on the saddle behind me. Eventually, we left the road and started up the stone/dirt path passing pilgrims on foot around La Faba.
Enjoying the ride
Loved the not walking part
Entering Galicia
Perfectly placed fountain for the horses
Stunning views
Nearly to O’Cebreiro
We were blessed with absolutely gorgeous views and a bright, sunny day. I could actually enjoy both because I was not struggling up the mountain on foot. This horse ride was the best decision I’ve made on the Camino yet. We also got some amused/incredulous looks from pilgrims we passed. The landscape is definitely changing and I could tell that we were entering Galicia even before we passed the sign that told us so. The horses stopped for water and I was starting to feel saddle-sore after 2 hours, but still better than I would have felt walking. I was super impressed with Victor who walks up with the horses EVERY DAY and rides back down.
Entering O’Cebreiro
Monumento do Peregrino
oldest extant church (9th c.) associated with the pilgrim way
Nearly in the clouds
Galician architecture uses lots of stone
Looking out over Galicia
Our group arrived in O’Cebreiro at 11:30am. The five of us sat in a bar that Victor suggested and we all got a snack while the horses rested nearby. I had not booked any accommodation for today because I had no idea how tired/sore I would be after riding a horse for 2+ hours. I actually felt great and full of energy so decided I wanted to keep walking further since I was already off-stage. I asked Victor where he recommended I should stay for the night. He suggested Albergue Reboleira in Fonfria since it serves a traditional Galician meal. That sounded nice and it looked like a reasonable distance to walk so I thanked him and decided to take his suggestion.
Gorgeous ruins
A man was handing flowers to passing pilgrims
Passed lots of small, stone churches on this part
I left them on one of the way markers
After we all said goodbye and went our separate ways, I started walking just before 12:30pm. I met Lisa (Estonia) and Martin (Hungary) just outside O’Cebreiro and talked with them for a bit while walking. Then I walked alone for a long while and made it up the steep incline somehow. The scenery was beautiful but a little misty now that we’re near the top of the mountains. It looked like rain so I wore my poncho the last 3km. Unfortunately, as some point one of my merino wool gloves must have fallen out of my pocket and I didn’t notice. This made me extra sad because I haven’t lost any possessions so far and my hands are always cold so of all the things to lose this was such a bummer.
Passed more abandoned villages
More cool ruins
Looking like rain
I made it to the Albergue just in time for the rain to start pouring! They had plenty of room for walk-ins so I paid for a bed and dinner. After showering and unpacking I ran into Kay again and we decided to do our laundry together. I chatted a little with my bunkmate, Nina, and learned that she is from Tampa, FL. She told me there was a third person from Florida staying at this Albergue. What a small world!
Arrived before the rain
All poles look the same, so I tie purple ribbon on mine
Large dorm with lots of bunks
At dinner, we sat at several long tables and I sat with Kay, Millie (Tasmania, we met in Mazarife), Leonardo (France), and Sebastian (from Columbia, lives in Miami). We were a very lively group and lovely conversation all around. The restaurant building was a circle with a tall, cone shaped wooden roof. The Albergue served some delicious, traditional Galician food (soup, rice and meat, Santiago cake). After the food, they played traditional music and encouraged people to dance. Some people started a conga line and the atmosphere was super fun. Ended a perfect day happily.
Building where we ate dinner
Very cool roof
Galician soup
Main course, served family style
First time having Santiago cake in Spain
