Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 20
Date: April 29, 2025 Tuesday
Where did I begin today?
Molinaseca-> walk to Ponferrada-> bus to Villafranca del Bierzo-> taxi to Las Herrerias
Where will I stay this evening?
Las Herrerias (Casa Lixa Albergue)
How far have I come?
7km (4.35 miles) walking; 23km (14.29 miles) bus; 21km (13.05 miles) taxi
I woke up a little annoyed this morning. Last night, a group of 5-6 middle-aged Spanish men kept loudly talking in the dorm until around 10pm. While silence in the dorm is impossible, most people I’ve met on the Camino so far have been very considerate about not having loud conversations after most pilgrims have gone to bed. This was not the case last night. Unfortunately, I let out some of my annoyance at another older Spanish guy who was not traveling with them. He asked if I wanted to walk with him this morning and I said no. I felt like I needed some alone time after not getting a restful night’s sleep but since there was a communication barrier, my flat “no” probably came out harsher than I intended. I felt bad afterwards. I was the last one to leave the Albergue at 7:45am, I took my time packing and waited for everyone else to leave first.
Saw some sheep just past Molinaseca
Quiet, dirt path running parallel to the road
Since today is Tuesday and I have to work, I knew my walk today would unfortunately be cut short due to time constraints. Also, since I booked my horse ride for tomorrow (a day earlier than I wanted), it means that even if it wasn’t a Tuesday, I would still have to skip one entire stage since it would be impossible for me to walk the distance of two days condensed into one. I had already booked my accommodation in Las Herrerias at the Albergue where the horse guide (Victor) told me to meet him. My plan was to sort out transportation once I got to the larger city of Ponferrada, hopefully there’s a bus that can take me the rest of the way there.
Entering Campo
Well preserved buildings
Ponferrada in the distance
The walk to Ponferrada was surprisingly peaceful and nice despite some road walking. I ran into the Canadian family again in the first little town (Campo) I passed through. Decided to walk with them because they were also taking a bus from Ponferrada (they told me before they aren’t walking the whole Frances, just bits and pieces where they can due to time and physical limitations). We ate some good breakfast (I had caprese toast) at Barbacana café in front of the castle. I was very sad that I had no time to visit because apparently entry was free today.
Entering Ponferrada
Magnificent 12th century Templar castle
Castillo de los Templarios
The Knights Templar were disbanded by the Catholic Church in 1312
Together, we walked to the tourist office and the worker gave us a map with directions to the bus station. Then I parted ways with the Canadians since they needed to stop at an eyeglass store and I had more of a time crunch to arrive at my destination before 2pm. I left the Camino and walked to the bus station. Thanks to the helpful ticket window people, I found an 11:40am bus to Villafranca del Bierzo (the normal end point for today’s stage). Las Herrerias is too small of a town to have a bus stop so I’d need to find a taxi from Villafranca del Bierzo.
Riverside walk below the Castle
Farewell breakfast with the Canadians
La Torre del Reloj
After the bus reached the final stop, I got off and walked through the old part of town to the local tourist office (two in one day). I explained that I needed to find a taxi to Las Herrerias and the kind lady called a taxi for me and he came in 15mins. I sat outside near the church to wait in the shade for the driver where I could see the road. After he picked me up, we took a short, winding highway (next to the Camino) into the foothills and Las Herrerias. I was equal parts sad to be skipping a whole day of walking, and grateful to skip a more uphill section.
Villafranca del Bierzo
Iglesia San Nicolás
Found the Camino route again
I arrived shortly before 2pm to Casa Lixa Albergue. I checked in, quickly showered and changed, then got ready for work sitting in lobby/restaurant with a Coke. While sitting there watching more pilgrims arrive, I encountered a very unusual sight: a couple carrying two young children (a toddler and infant by the looks of it) on their backs! Later on, I had a conversation with the dad and learned that the family is from Denmark and had walked the Frances before they had kids. Their 3-year-old enjoys walking and they only carry him when he gets too tired. Because they are carrying kids, they need to send all their luggage ahead. I could not imagine walking the Camino with such young children but I was thoroughly impressed by them and commended the mom and dad on giving their family such a unique experience.
Made it to Las Herrerias
The Albergue entrance was on the second floor
I returned to work and was just glad that the country-wide blackout had happened yesterday and not today or I would have had some serious issues. In an ironic twist of fate, Joe walked in. We had another laugh about how I kept “beating him to Albergues” even when both of us kept expecting to not cross paths again (he’s a much faster/further walker than I am). I explained how I was working tonight and about tomorrow’s horse ride. He introduced me to an older woman named Kay (New Zealand) who was also staying at Casa Lixa. I took a break at 7pm to have dinner with them both in the Albergue restaurant and we had an engaging conversation (including laughing at our awkward encounter with a couple in our shared room who were cuddling in the top bunk). I finished up work at 9pm and went to bed around 10pm.
Denmark family walking the Camino
Casa Lixa dorm
