Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 3
Date: April 12,2025 Saturday
Where did I begin today?
Albergue Borda
Where will I stay this evening?
Roncesvalles- the old monastery
How far have I come?
16.5km (10.25miles) +600m (1969 feet) elevation gain
Route de Napoleon
I knew that crossing the pass over the Pyrenees would be the hardest day physically by far. I left Borda at 7:45am, since today was mostly uphill, I decided to take it very slowly and everyone passed me except Pam. I arrived at the Virgin statue feeling good but the next 4~5kms were brutal! I was thankful for the perfect weather; it was a cloudless day and not too cold despite some wind.
Vierge d’Orisson
On top of the Pyrenees
Food truck
When I reached the food truck (the furthest point of drivable road, where the Camino turned into a dirt path so no turning back) I wasn’t certain if I could go on since it was less than half way and the steepest part was yet to come. Pam encouraged me to go for it as I ate a hard-boiled egg and we decided to walk together. The next 1km up was so hard! But the flat 5km after were very nice and we saw some horses in the distance that were wearing bells.
Start of unpaved trail
Imagine bells ringing in the wind
It felt amazing to walk across the France/Spain border on foot by crossing over a cattle grate. Also refilled some much-needed water from the fountain. Then the trail got steep again and the 1km up to Col de Lepoeder (the highest point on the Camino) I didn’t think I would make it. Pam and I literally took it one labored step at a time. We stopped for a lunch break and I unfortunately needed to pee in the woods but Pam graciously kept watch for me. I was so happy to start going downhill! My pain was finally over, but Pam’s knees were hurting much more on the downhill so I stayed at her pace. We took the right route which was less steep.
Leaving France…
…entering Spain
We finally made it to Roncesvalles at 4:15pm (good thing we both had reservations because we were almost the last ones to arrive). We both got set up on the third floor with Cassie, Annika, Chris, and I met a new roommate, Peter in the bed next to me (the third floor is the only one without bunk beds, we had cubbies instead). I put my stuff down and quickly took a shower but while in there, Cassie told me there was a bed mix up but she helped get it sorted.
Col de Lepoeder 1,450m (4,757ft)
Roof of Roncesvalles visible in the distance, all downhill from here
Cassie and I went to the pilgrim’s mass at 6pm and received a blessing from the priest. Then I went to my assigned dinner (there were 3 restaurants that each pilgrim got a meal voucher for if you paid for dinner when making the reservation) at 7pm. At my table, there were two South African girls, two young guys who work in the UK, and one man who had walked all the way from Paris! I also met a man from Egypt, and so in only two days I had met people from every continent but Antarctica. We had nice conversations and an ok dinner of chicken, pasta, French fries, wine, and flan.
Pam and I finished our full day of hiking
Roncesvalles, one of the earliest pilgrim refuges
After dinner I settled in for bed before lights out at 10pm. I’m absolutely exhausted from climbing over the Pyrenees but I’m so happy that’s all behind me now. There’s currently a thunderstorm most of the night with a high chance of rain all day tomorrow.
Third floor dormitory (sleeps 183)
Pilgrim’s mass
