Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 4
Date: April 13, 2025 Sunday
Where did I begin today?
Roncesvalles
Where will I stay this evening?
Zubiri (Albergue Suseia)
How far have I come?
21.9km (13.6miles)
I woke up late, even with the bright overhead lights because I was wearing a sleeping mask and earplugs. By the time I finished packing, most pilgrims had already left. I ate a quick breakfast and left Roncesvalles at 8am.
I wanted to take a photo next to the famous sign to Santiago de Compostela and met American couple Sue and Bill who were celebrating 45 years of marriage. They took my picture and we walked together for a bit. It was drizzling but stopped after 30 minutes.
Cool bridge
While passing through the village of Burguete, I passed several pilgrims I knew from Borda and Roncesvalles who were getting breakfast. Then I crossed the río Erro on large stepping stones which was fun.
A good boy taking my pizza order
I felt really good physically speaking up until the halfway point at Viskarret. I stopped at a bar for a pizza slice and to take a rest where I met an Ausie couple. When I started going uphill around Linzoain, I realized my left shoulder was hurting so took it very slow. While walking, I met an older woman, Marilyn and we chatted a bit.
Alto de Erro, just before the steep descent
Yolanda, her friend, and I in Zubiri
I didn’t sit down at Alto de Erro even though I was tired because I was afraid that I wouldn’t be able to stand up again. The last section, was a very hard, slippery, rocky descent into Zubiri. Luckily, I met up with Yolanda (who I met my first night in Beilari) and her friend and we encouraged each other while walking.
Bridge entering Zubiri
Pilgrims cooling off their tired feet in the river
After we crossed the bridge into Zubiri, I had to leave the Camino and the downtown area and walk quite far to Albergue Suseia. It was worth the extra walk though thanks to an absolutely fabulous 4 course dinner cooked by our host Sara!
Best home cooked meal I had on the Camino
Fleur (the hostess of Beilari) was also visiting so it was nice to see her again along with many other familiar faces including Bill & Sue, Marilyn, Chris, and David (Beilari). I also met a man from South Korea, Anabell (an Aussie who lives in Germany), and an older lady from FL walking with her 74y.o. friend from GA, and Grace who was celebrating her 63rd birthday. I had a lovely conversation about Thailand over dinner and the group all got along so great that Sue started a Whatsapp group chat for some of us.
Before bed, I decided to take a taxi part of the way tomorrow because I had been walking so slowly and really wanted to have enough time in the day to explore Pamplona (a walled medieval city where they host the annual running of the bulls in July) when I arrived. Sara was kind enough to help me book a taxi driven by her neighbor Inigo. Before dinner, Chris, Marilyn, and I shared laundry and I drank some of my earl grey lavender tea from home. I went to bed at 10pm, once again on a top bunk.
Top bunk in 6-person room
