Thoughts from my Camino Frances Journey- Day 5
Date: 04/14/25, Monday
Where did I begin today?
Zubiri (Suseia) -> taxi to Zurian -> walk to Pamplona
Where will I stay this evening?
Pamplona (Casa Ibarrola)
How far have I come?
11.8km (7.33miles) walking; 20.25km (12.58miles) total
Shy kitties
It felt a bit strange to watch the other pilgrims leave Suseia while I waited in the breakfast room. I took a taxi from Zubiri to Zuriáin (3.8kms/2.36miles away) at 8:10am and walked along the highway for about 600m before turning onto a forest path. I saw a few feral kittens who peered shyly at me from the bushes. Since I started between stages, this was my first time being mostly alone on the Camino, I was only passed by one or two pilgrims who must have got a very early start from Zubiri. I happened to meet up with Grace who took a taxi to Zabaldika and walked a little way with her but I stopped to rest at the first steep uphill section and she continued on.
Zabaldika
Dogs on a hot tin roof
Things began to feel a bit more industrial as I passed through a tunnel under the main highway. When I reached the bridge in Trinidad de Arre, I paused and tried to find the scenic riverside route I read last night in the Brierley Guidebook. Unfortunately, the signage wasn’t super clear and I was nervous about accidentally leaving the Way. So, when I saw a pilgrim march confidently across the bridge, I followed him and asked if this was the correct way (I meant for the riverwalk but he misunderstood me and was taking the main route).
Puente de Arre
suburban sprawl outside Pamplona
We started chatting and I learned his name was Robb and he was a special education teacher from county Cork in Ireland. We walked together through the last two towns before Pamplona, the suburban section along sidewalks I was hoping to avoid. However, our conversation was so engrossing (mainly about the different education systems in Ireland, the USA, and Thailand with a focus on special needs students) that I hardly minded. We both stopped just outside the towering walls of Pamplona to eat a protein bar and we met Doug from the UK who was also resting on our bench. After that, we said goodbye and went to our separate Albergues.
The old city walls of Pamplona
Casa Ibarrola happened to be right inside the gates of Pamplona, I arrived at 11:50am just in time for the 12pm check-in. I was ultimately content with my decision to take a taxi since it meant I arrived with plenty of time to explore the narrow, medieval streets of the city (also, I wouldn’t have met Robb otherwise). Shortly after I had settled in, David and Annabelle arrived (proving they were indeed both fast walkers) and we asked the host for recommendations of good tapas places. We went for lunch at Baserriberriwhile taking a few detours to see some of the sites such as the Plaza del Castillo and Iglesia San Nicolás.
Portal de Francia
Entering Pamplona
After a pleasant afternoon, we returned to Casa Ibarrola where I showered and hung out in the Albergue lobby. I made the unfortunate discovery that I had developed a large blister on the inside heel of my right foot. I suspect it was trying to keep up with Robb’s much loner strides during our walk into the city. It hadn’t hurt, but now that I had stopped walking, it definitely did. Opinions of other pilgrims were mixed weather I should drain it before applying Compeed, but I was too scared to pop it so just slapped a Compeed on it and hoped for the best.
Exploring the rainy streets
Casa Consistorial (town hall)
San Saturnino
The group of us, David, Annabelle, Caroline, & Cathy, decided to have dinner at 7pm at Café Iruña (a famous haunt of Ernest Hemingway). We ordered a bunch of tapas to share including spicy potatoes, croquettes, calamari, and cheese rolls. After returning, some people began booking hostels ahead in preparation for the upcoming Easter weekend when the Camino gets even busier with locals and beds might be scarce. This was the second-to-last accommodation that I had pre-booked and the nerves got to me so I joined in and started researching. I tried booking through Easter week but so far can’t find anything in Logroño (which I would arrive in on Good Friday), I haven’t checked Nájera yet though. It definitely stressed me out a bit.
Café Iruña
(L to R)Cathy, Annabelle, me, Caroline, & David in front of Ernest Hemmingway statue
Meanwhile, I was extra concerned about doing another 200+ meter climb tomorrow with a new blister and a rainy forecast. Luckily, I persuaded Caroline (CA) to share a taxi with me just to reach the top of Alto del Perdón. I asked our host if he knew a taxi service we could call tomorrow and he gave us a telephone number. He also shared some of his stories of how he ran with the bulls and even got jabbed by a horn in his butt and needed stitches. I almost didn’t believe him until he showed us a video of the crowd running through the narrow streets chased by some angry bulls. Absolutely mental!
Now getting ready for bed, I like this Albergue since it reminds me of the capsule hotel I stayed in the Bangkok airport. The cubbies are definitely more private, even though you can still hear snoring, but that’s why I brought earplugs.
Casa Ibarrola capsul hostel
